Thursday, July 29, 2010

Pixels

Just some kitschy photos I felt like posting. Enjoy.

That's right.

First view entering Virginia.

Some of these Virginia roads are awesome. Shaded, quiet, beautiful, and few cars. Doesn't Demetrii look amazingly rad?

Recent travel companion, Colby, almost getting lost.

John, watch out!

Ferry across Ohio. Check out John's ride, Ol' Betsy. Sweeeet.

Tuesday, July 27, 2010

Wild Hillbilly Jungle (Days 50-52)

Eastern Kentucky is how you Reno folks might imagine Sun Valley to be if Sun Valley were more poor, and spread along the road through a dense forest. It feels like a land without rules. There are abandoned houses, abandoned cars, abandoned fires, abandoned piles of trash, abandoned semi-trucks, abandoned dogs, and abandoned children. People talk real slow. Many are missing teeth. Most people sit on their porches and watch you ride past, how they support themselves I have no idea. There aren't farms or large business, just coal mines and logging trucks. This is a strange, weird, charming, and beautiful land.

Day 50:
Colby and I took a shortcut to save some time, hit the library in Hindman, and got to Bardstown, Kentucky fairly early (57.5 miles). Due to lack of camping availability Colby and I decided to split a motel. We then proceeded to defeat the buffet across the street, where I ran into Mike again (who had gone off-route for a bit). That night, I decided to run some errands and like a fool went without my headlight and almost got annihilated by a driver that wasn't paying attention. It was a nice reminder to be more careful, which I have been ever since.
Day 51:
Lodging was limited so Colby and I narrowed our options down to an 84 mile day off-route to get to a town with a Warmshowers.org host. The shortcut saved us around 30 miles, and ended up having some decent shoulders to ride on. Arrived in Berea, Kentucky in the afternoon and then waited a bit for Rose McCallum (our host) to show up. While waiting, I contacted Dee and found out he was at the hospital there from taking a fall. I visited him and turns out he hurt his arm pretty good, but was going to continue. I'm glad you're okay Dee. Colby and I got some pizza, Rose came home, and we got cleaned up and hung out for a while. Rose was very friendly, had some awesome dogs, and was kind enough to let us stay even though she had just moved. Thank you Rose, you rock!
Day 52:
Again, or lodgings were limited so Colby and I did a 51 mile day to Booneville, Kentucky to stay behind a cyclist-friendly church there. I realized immediately after leaving Berea that I was in a strange new place. The day started with a decent climb, the biggest since Colorado, then dropped into what I referred to above as "Eastern Kentucky." Upon arrival, I had lunch with some fellow cyclists touring for charity. Cool guys. The church had a pavilion for us to camp under and a cold shower to refresh ourselves with, rock on (though the pastor did have his shirt tucked into his underwear, hanging out the top of his belt. I had to try pretty hard to keep from bursting).

Just a typical view from the road.


Uh?

Monday, July 26, 2010

The Final Boss

Appalachian Mountains begin. I'm going to destroy them.














(Elevation Profile, now measured in thousands of feet once again)

Saturday, July 24, 2010

Camaraderie (Days 45-49)

>3100 miles in.
Two states left, Kentucky and Virginia, and I am officially on Eastern Time. I have roughly 875 miles to Yorktown, Virginia, and another 200 up the coast to Washington D.C. The hospitality I've encountered over the past few days, and few weeks, has been mind-blowing. Temperature and humidity have remained fairly high, but I think I am finally acclimating. I've had the chance now to ride with someone else for a few days, and really had a great time traveling with him. Thanks John, I'm sure we'll cross paths again soon!

Day 45:
Left the hut and hit the road with John in the morning. The day seemed to drag going up and down the hills, and getting lost for an extra 8 miles (missed our turn) at the end of the day didn't help. After 87 miles, I was much relieved when we arrived in Goreville, Illinois. As we are pulling up to a cafe to grab dinner, a lady walked over to us from the gas station and said she would call her pastor to unlock the church basement for us to stay in, which was completely amazing. We weren't sure about our lodging that night so this was such a relief after a hard day. We got dinner (free desert for cyclists!) and went over to the church. The basement had internet, a kitchen, bathrooms, AC, and couches to sleep on. So lucky.
Day 46:
Got breakfast at the same cafe (for another free desert), then John and I hit the road again for a short 50 mile day to Elizabethtown, Illinois. Well, again we missed our turn, and it ended up being a 72 mile day. We still got there, and the bed and breakfast let us camp in back for $5 and included a shower and dip in the hot tub. Before settling in, John and I went to a restaurant floating on the edge of the Ohio River for dinner. They weren't so veggie-friendly, so I dragged John all over the little town looking for someplace else, only to end up back at the floating diner (thanks for hangin' in there with me John). Two grilled cheese sandwiches, a salad, baked beans, corn, fries, and two orders of fried mushrooms later we went back to the bed and breakfast and slept in the open on the deck.
Day 47:
We knew the three older guys (Dee, Richard, and Mike) were just behind us, and we wanted first dibs on beds at the hostel ahead, so John and I were on the road by about 6AM. We road 10 miles to Cave In Rock, Illinois, and crossed the ferry over the Ohio River into Kentucky. As soon as we got to the other side a storm blew in and within 30 seconds we were pretty drenched (though it felt great). At 2:30 we arrived at a church hostel in Sebree, Kentucky. They were just finishing up a funeral service and had a huge table filled with food that they let John and I loose on, so we ate a few plates of food then went downstairs and got cleaned up. The church basement was pretty awesome, and later the older guys showed up. That night, the wife of the church's pastor (Violet, who is incredibly kind) made us all a huge dinner, and we all sat down like a big family, shared stories, and ate some delicious food together. This was one of the greatest experiences of my trip so far. Everything was just perfect, thank you Bob & Violet Hardison. (68 miles)
Day 48:
John decided to take a rest day in Sebree, and I was feeling pretty fatigued myself, but I saw a fire station hostel (YES!) in Utica, Kentucky, 29 miles down the road, so I decided to just do a short day. I got there, and the store clerk at the gas station across the street told me it was unlocked for cyclists, no one is there but go in and make myself at home, so I did just that. They had mattresses set up, a shower, washer and dryer, and kitchen, not to mention a huge bay with a few fire trucks parked inside (everything but a fire-pole, maybe next time though). Two cyclists, Colby and CK showed up a little later. Check out Colby's blog here, and CK's blog here. CK, a grad-student from Hong Kong, studied astrophysics and had a telescope for us to do some stargazing that night. Too much fun.
Day 49:
I made everyone breakfast then left early in the morning. On my way to Hudson, Kentucky I stopped at the Rough River Dam and went swimming for a while. Colby showed up, and we hung out there for a bit. That night I stayed at the Double L Grocery past Hudson, and the owner and his wife, Arnold and Lucy, made Colby and I dinner and let us camp under the awning of their store. For dinner we got to pick fresh corn and cucumbers out of their field, which tasted amazing. Along with some fresh tomatoes, peaches, and chips, they even made me a couple grilled cheese sandwiches (a total of four for the day). Sitting down and eating with strangers like a family feels great. Meetings like these really help if you're feeling homesick, thanks Arnold and Lucy. (72.6 miles)

Hi John!

Higher it goes.

View of the Ohio River while crossing on the ferry.

Resturaunt on the Ohio River in Elizabethtown, Illinois.

I'm glad I didn't upset him taking the photo, the fence between us wouldn't have phased him much.

Is there a fire here?

Rough River swimming hole.

Monday, July 19, 2010

Macro Life

Just been having fun with some macro style photography, something to keep me busy while I pedal. There is a whole tiny world that people sometimes forget about, you just have to look closer. It's hard to miss them when they fly into you all day though, or hang around and sing to you all night (and sometimes try to bite you too).

Lovely butterfly, trying to warm up after a storm.

Ohm Shell, found clinging to my tent in the morning.

Mr. Legs. These guys love to hang out on my tent.

Evil Eye

Beautiful flower I found after some rain.

Peek-A-Boo

Don't Mind Me

Not really "macro life," but here is my fortune for the trip. Either it means I finish, or become a powerful super hero vampire type creature.

This is my fortune from last summer.

Fantastic Lodging (Days 43-44)

>2800 Miles.
I have left Missouri, and should only be in Illinois for a couple days at most. Kentucky here I come!

Day 43:Rode 70 miles to Farmington, Missouri and stayed in a historic jailhouse. The jailhouse has been converted to a bike hostel for cross-country cyclists (ran by optional donation), and is probably one of the nicest hostels on the planet (now called Al's place). TV, computer, fridge, sink, beds, washer, dryer, and two showers. John also showed up, as well as some others cyclists I've met once or twice, Mike, Dee, and Richard. Check out Dee's blog here. Mike, Dee and Richard are in their late 50's and 60's, and are totally kicking hard. Before heading to sleep, John and I went and saw Inception in theatres. Loved it.
Day 44:
I got about 5 miles out of town and a huge storm rolled in on me. Within about 10 minutes, it felt like it was suddenly night time. Before the rain started I pulled up to the end of someones driveway to gear up for it. As I was about to leave, the couple living there screamed and waved for me to come in. I put my bike in their garage, and they informed me that the tornado siren in town was going off, and there was a huge storm/tornado advisory. I looked in sky and could actually see the clouds huge and ominous starting to circle. Power went out in all of Farmington and the rain was dropping heavy. They let me stay inside with them for an hour or two, fed me some grapes while the power went in and out, then after it blew over I left again to ride in the rain for about 55 miles. On my way I crossed the Mississippi River and finally left Missouri. Stopped and stayed with the Eternal Order of Eagles in Chester, Illinois (home of Popeye!). They had a small cyclist hut set up, with wooden bunk beds and AC, free of charge. The other 4 guys from the night before were also there.

Al's Place

Yep, the green pin is me. The first from Nevada to stay at Al's Place.

Johnsons Shut-In State Park. Should not have visited on a Saturday. Still had fun though.

M-i-s-s-i-s-s-i-p-p-i

Saturday, July 17, 2010

Illinois Draws Near (Days 41-42)

Carson Pass/Sierras
Nevada Ranges
Utah Canyons/Ranges
Rockies
Ozarks

Appalachian Mountains

>2700 miles.

Day 41:
Heavy rain, clouds, lightning, breezy, foggy. Overall completely terrible weather, and it couldn't be more welcomed by me. Finally a day where I can ride in comfort. Instead of doing my normal day off for Friday, I decided to split it into two half days so I'd have a chance to explore more. Did my laundry and cleaned up, then hit the road late in the afternoon. Rode 52 miles through the Ozark National Park, rode around the area and took some pictures. Finished my ride in Eminence, Missouri at a $5 campground with a shower and a nice camping spot under some low trees.
Day 42:
Rode just 29 miles into Ellington, Missouri, swam at the Current River on the way, then stayed with Herman G. R. Freiherr von Stein from warmshowers.org. Herman made me dinner, breakfast, gave me a shower, a comfortable bed to sleep in, an air conditioned relaxed environment, and some awesome stories from his youth in Germany. He even took me to get a haircut! Later that day the infamous John showed up and stayed at Herman's as well.

Thursday, July 15, 2010

Missouri is the Oven, I'm the Dough (Days 38-40)

Okay. You know when you open an oven after baking something at high temperature, and the heat just blasts you in the face? Well, now get in the oven and ride up and down some jagged hills for 70 miles on a loaded touring bike. That's what Missouri is like. Heat index has been between 100°F and 110°F.
I was also hoping the hills illustrated on the map were exaggerated, but most of them are actually as steep as they might appear (the steepest of the trip so far, but all usually very short climbs). It really does feel like a roller coaster. Crank up to the top and fly down the hill as fast and as far as you can, then do it all over again.

>2570 miles, still ridin' tough.

Day 38:
Finally hit Missouri, and already the hills have started taking form. Goodbye Kansas, you'll be missed. Stopped for lunch in Girard, Kansas, just near the border, and for seemingly no reason, a woman bought my lunch and left without saying anything. I wish I could have at least thanked her. Also met a cyclist from Ireland just before Girard. After 75 miles camped in a park in Golden City, Missouri. Several people, including the sheriff, actually warned me of tornadoes, lightning, and bad weather. They gave me instructions of where to go if the tornado alarm goes off, and then with their suggestions I moved my tent under the awning in the park. The lightning and thunder were pretty intense, but there was no wind, and only light rain. Another night survived.
Day 39:
Woke up and grabbed a shower in the park (Kansas and Missouri have been just awesome for camping), got breakfast, and hit the road. On my way to Fair Grove , Missouri met a cyclist from England. In Fair Grove, I stopped at the gas station and the lady called someone to open the pavilion in the park so I could use their showers and restroom for the night. Two showers in one day? Wowzers, luxury (with the humidity though it's almost necessary, the sweat does not ever evaporate). (69 miles)
The dogs have started to chase now, although mostly friendly. The funniest one was a Welsh Corgi chasing me through some tall grass. His little legs couldn't quite carry him through the grass so he just kind of skidded out and fell over, still barking and eying me with fury. Hopefully Michael and Adrienne can appreciate that one.
Some of these places are just what you'd imagine you might see. Old timers sitting around drinking coffee at diners, talking about farming or fishing. Shirtless men drinking beer, with a heavy slow southern type accent, wondering why the heck you want to ride a bicycle that far. Fat shirtless men in rocking chairs swatting flies on their porch. Horse drawn buggies cruising down the road, Amish families behind the reigns. I've seen them all, and far more. It's magical.
Day 40:
Met some cyclists on my way to Houston, Missouri riding on a supported tour for charity. Check out their website here. I ended up staying near them in a park in Houston. They were all very nice (also met their driver Brittany and dog Bandit), hopefully we'll meet up again. They are riding as a tribute to a friend that passed away, so they're doing it for a really great cause. On the way we also met up at Dog Bluff Park, a wonderful swimming area off the Big Piney River. Even got the chance to do some cliff jumping. Humidity and heat seem to grow more intense everyday, but I guess it's supposed to cool off soon. Thank my lucky stars. (82 miles)

The cliff we jumped off. I got some video of myself doing it, which hopefully I can compile into a nice movie at the end of the trip.

The three cyclists I met (Joe, Colin, Alex).

Demetrii cooling off near the river.

Missouri!

Wednesday, July 14, 2010

Inspirational History

"Thomas Stevens (December 24, 1854, Berkhamsted, Hertfordshire, England - January 24, 1935) was the first person to circle the globe by bicycle."
"In 1884 he acquired a black-enameled Columbia 50-inch Standard model penny-farthing with nickel-plated wheels built by the Pope Manufacturing Company of Chicago. Carrying in his handlebar bag: socks, a spare shirt, a raincoat that doubled as tent and bedroll, and a 38 Smith & Wesson Stevens left San Francisco at 8 o'clock on April 22, 1884 and traveled eastward through the territories towards the United States. He reached Boston after 3700 miles on wagon trails, railroad ways, canal towpaths and public roads, to complete the first transcontinental bicycle ride on August 4, 1884."
"Having tasted success, Stevens then went on to become the first man to cycle around the world on a bicycle."

So far I have met riders from Sweden, Germany, Ireland, and England. Anyone willing to travel across the ocean and ride in a foreign land is very brave in my eyes. Especially ridin' on 50-inch wheels. =D

Just look how awesome this guy is. What a 'stache!
Here is the route he took.

Resources:
Here and Here

Tuesday, July 13, 2010

The Roller Coaster of Misery Missouri

Pedal Powered!

(Elevation Profile)

One of the cyclists I met the other day, John Harris, sent me a link to his blog and was kind enough to link my blog on his (click here). John is also taking the train on the 18th, but at a different time. Hopefully we will still run into eachother though, John seems very nice (just as everyone had said).

Monday, July 12, 2010

The Second Half (Days 35-37)

>2360 miles. Everyday I have been meeting more and more cyclists. I'll be leaving Kansas today and entering Missouri. Everyone has been warning me about the dogs in Kentucky though. I guess they become more and more abundant and angrier from here until I reach East Kentucky, where they chase you down in packs. I have seen and been chased by a few friendly strays already, but nothing major. I just purchased my train ticket home (which cut the cost of the ticket in half), and plan to depart from Washington D.C. on Wednesday, August 18th, and arrive in Reno after a transfer in Chicago on Saturday, August 21st. This adds an extra 200 miles of cycling to my trip, but I couldn't bring my bike on board unless I left from D.C. I have about 1770 miles left, with the extra milage to D.C. and 37 days to do it. Giving myself 4 more rest days, I'll be there on time as long as I average about 54 miles a day. If I get there early I plan to either CouchSurf, or stay with people from the video gaming community.

Day 35:
Rest day. Rode 12 miles to run some errands. Had my bike tuned and cleaned, printed some photos, and watched a movie. After Jerry got home from work, we went to Zen Vegetarian Cuisine, and gorged ourselves on some amazingly delicious vegetarian food (boba, dumplings, fried spring rolls, egg fu yung, and shitake mushrooms and tofu). Slept well again, and readied myself for some more riding. Thanks again for everything Jerry, I had such a relaxing time there just hanging out, eating well, and even meeting your wonderful family. =D
Day 36:
Jerry dropped me off back in Newton and I got on the road again around 1PM. I couldn't decide if I wanted to stop in the first town, or continue to the second town, but I felt good so I went for the second one, Eureka, Kansas, 76 miles out. On my way, I finally caught a cyclist in Cassoday I have been hearing stories about since the Sierra's, John (everywhere I went, it was: "Have you met john?" or "John stayed here last night..."). Also on my way, I got attacked by a pair of birds for about a mile. They were literally pecking my helmet and shoulders as I tried to swat them away and steer the bike, was hilarious. There were two other cyclists in the park where I camped that night, both going West, who shared some cookies with me.
Day 37:
This was probably the hottest day since riding in Utah, but I woke up early and rode slow and steady for 91 miles. Camped in the park in Walnut, Kansas. Two people warned me about a major storm, which I was actually hoping for that night since it was so hot, but it never came. I could see the lightning in the distance though, and I guess there were some tornado warnings in the area. Moved three turtles off the road, and though I'd like to think I saved them, they probably just went right back (the first live turtle of the trip was even rewarded with a cup of fruit). I named all three Donatello.

I am saving some of my best photos for a special post at the end of the trip, but I'll continue to post some of my others until then.




Thursday, July 8, 2010

Wheat, Rain, Wind, and Hospitality (Days 32-34)

>2160 miles.
Over halfway through my journey as I continue through Kansas.
Apparently some of the storms from the south have been blowing up this way, so the weather has been rather erratic, and the headwinds have been fairly constant, but at least the sun and humidity are not being unkind.

Day 32:
Rode 70 miles to a cyclist only bed and breakfast, where I met with a Westbound cyclist named Cooper (and met up with Jeff and Cynthia again on the way. These two are the best to ride with, we just constantly keep running into each other). Elaine, the owner of the B&B made us a huge delicious home-made dinner. After dinner, Dan (Elaine's husband) drove us all out to the country to their friend's where we got to watch a small belated 4th of July fireworks display (I have been on a bike for several weeks now, so driving 65 mph in a car honestly felt like we were doing 120 mph, it tripped me out). For the first time in my life I got to see, and even catch a firefly (out of Elaine's hair, haha). On the way home, we stopped at a graveyard and Elaine showed us a gravestone with a false back, that was used during prohibition to smuggle moonshine. Cooper and I even unscrewed it. Went back home and slept on a bed on Elaine's porch, after having ice cream and pie. Yes!
Day 33:
Woke up and Elaine made Cooper and I breakfast, then we all said goodbye. Rode a few miles, then the rain just started falling like a waterfall, and soon I was completely soaked (before the rain I met Jed, who I wrote about in the previous entry). I made it to the next town and met up with Jeff and Cynthia again at a gas station. They went on and I warmed up in a cafe. The rained lightened to a small drizzle for almost the rest of the day, and I rode 95 miles through a light headwind to Sterling, Kansas. In all of Kansas you can camp in parks for free, if you notify the police department, so I camped in the park and met another Westbound cyclist, Gill.
Day 34:
Woke up late, got breakfast, went to the library and got on the road around noon. Hit a detour in my way to Newton, Kansas, and had to ride an extra 12 miles out of the way. I've been talking to other cyclists on the way, and it's funny because they all have the same mentality I do regarding off-route miles. We are willing to ride over 3500 miles across the country, but any instance that takes us even a mile off-route, is just dreadful. Those 12 extra miles made the rest of the day seem to just drag. I made it to Newton around 6:30 and of course met up with Jeff and Cynthia again, haha. In Newton I was picked up by Jerry, my Dad's childhood friend who now lives in Wichita, Kansas. I have never met Jerry, but he still drove 30 miles to pick me up and take me to his home, and I could not be more thankful for his wonderful generosity. I have been relaxing for a couple hours, and plan to take a rest day tomorrow. Thanks again for picking me up Jerry. As I said in the car, this is such a nice treat for me, and really helps to break up the monotony that can sometimes build up from riding everyday.

There are fireflies, cicada (noisiest bugs I've ever heard), chiggers, frogs, toads, turtles, armadillos, possums, humidity, erratic weather, and wheat like you wouldn't believe. It feels more peaceful, people are generally nicer and give you more time, the landscape is different, and even the sky looks different. Elaine, in her 8 years of running the B&B, had never seen gauged ears before, and thought they were some bicycle accessory (which I thought was sort of adorable). For the first time I feel like I have truly left the West.



Short Tales


Ran a hole in one of my pairs of socks, so I picked these stylish babies up in Montrose. Not only do they look amazing, but the orange stars actually give me the ability to ride up to 1% faster.


2000, oh dang. By the end of the trip I might have over 4000, if I continue to go off route.


Check out my sweet beard! Kidding, meet Jed. Jed defines the term "rugged." I've met several cross-country cyclists, but Jed is the first I have met that is walking across the country. In this picture he had been travelling for exactly three months, and he is almost half way. Go Jed go!

Tuesday, July 6, 2010

Flatlands (Days 28-31)

>1900 miles in.
I have left Colorado and enter the Great Plains (which in my opinion, are actually not so plain).

Day 28:
Made it over the last of the Rockies into Pueblo, CO and stayed at a cheap motel. On the way I met another single cyclist traveling West and we chatted. As we are talking, Jeff and Cynthia (the couple I met before) caught up and the four of us intersected. I've noticed that all the cyclists seem to magnetize towards one another, quite strange. Travelled 93 miles, and did not arrive in Pueblo until the sun was setting.
Day 29:
Slept in and got some breakfast, then hit the library for a couple hours. I was planning on riding for a half day to Ordway, CO, but as I was leaving I noticed my rear rack that holds the panniers snapped at one of the welds, causing the bottom part of the bracket to break off, leaving a bolt stuck in the bike frame. It couldn't have happened anywhere better though, because I was able to ride for a few blocks to a local bike shop and got the rack, and my rear tire (now low on tread) replaced, and the bolt removed from inside the frame. I didn't get out of Pueblo until around 5PM, but with some new Lance-Armstrong-Status confidence gained from defeating the Rockies and once again having a stable bike, rode 56 miles to Ordway anyways and set up camp behind a library.
Day 30:
Colorado must not have wanted me to leave. Vicious headwinds blasted me for 64 miles on my way to Eads, CO. My 18MPH-23MPH speeds from the day before, now reduced to a pitiful 5MPH-10MPH. Twice the effort and half the output. I rolled into Eads in the dark to a nice display of fireworks though. I found the one gas station open on the 4th of July, and was able to actually have a decent meal. Scott and Cynthia showed up around 9:40PM. They had rested a day in Pueblo, then made the full journey from Pueblo to there in one day, intense! It had started raining, so I set up my tent as fast as I could, then took some video and photo of a crazy lightning storm off in the distance. Well, it turns out the storm was headed directly over, for one of the most intense storms I have ever had the joy of being part of, and in a tent no less. Every two or three seconds the tent would light up from lightning, crazy rain blasted away, and winds blew me around like a kite (I'm surprised a pole didn't snap). In between lightning and thunder, people were setting off fireworks nearby, then the sprinkles came on. Basically I was being blasted as hard as possible by every possible source of anything that could blast. It was still warm though, so it still remained rather exciting, and somehow I managed to pass out between bombardments.
Day 31:
Officially over a month in, and approaching the half-way point. Left Colorado and was treated with a beautiful calm sunny day by Kansas. Kansas has been one of my favorite states so far. It's flat and peaceful, and the lack of mountains and trees places more emphasis on how big and beautiful the sky and clouds can be. I was finally able to put down more than 100 miles too, 107 to be exact. As I arrived in Scott City, Kansas, I met a nice couple travelling West, Sebastian and Stephani. We ate Mexican food together, then all camped in the park. Wonderful.